Newborn Nigerian Dwarf kids snuggled together
Buyer Guide

Goat Sales Policy

Welcome to the goat life! Here's everything you need to know before bringing one of our sweet kids home.

We adore our goats and we can't wait for you to love yours just as much! Once a goat leaves the farm, all sales are final.

Our goats are tested free from CL, CAE, and Johnes. Curious about our testing results? Just ask — we're happy to share!

A nonrefundable $150 deposit reserves your goat. Once we decide on a pickup date together, that's the day! If life gets in the way and pickup is delayed, a $25/week boarding fee gets added to your final bill. If I haven't heard from you for a month after a deposit was put down and I can't get ahold of you with no pickup in sight, the deposit will be applied to our feed bill and the doeling/buckling will be listed for sale.

If the kid you reserved isn't born or doesn't make it through birth, no worries — your deposit can roll over to another available kid, be fully refunded, or applied to a future breeding. Full refunds also apply for infertile bucks and hermaphrodites.

Our herd is always evolving thanks to our herd limit. Want to get on the waitlist for a future doe or buck? You won't know if you don't ask! That said, Clover, Zipporah, and Ruth are lifers here — they've got their forever spots.

Buying a Kid

As the breeder, I reserve the right to retain any animal at any time for any reason. It is especially important for our breeding program to have a few keepers every year to work towards our goal — Easy Big Producers.

Pricing for registered kids lives on the Kidding Schedule pages. Snagging more than one? You'll get a sweet little discount.

Every doeling and buckling comes with ADGA registration. Buy them under two months old and you get to pick the name!

Wether kids are just $50 — or totally free with the purchase of a doeling or buckling under 2 months old. They make the best buddies!

A few friendly heads-ups:

  1. Goats are herd animals — you'll need at least two of similar age. They're a package deal!
  2. Goats are champion-level stubborn. Patience, persistence, and repetition are your best friends.
  3. Once a kid leaves our farm, their health and willingness to thrive is your responsibility. We are not held responsible for any illness or unfortunate death. I highly encourage you to have an emergency kit on hand (immune booster, coccidia prevention, activated charcoal, Vitamin B Complex, dewormer, sub-Q antibiotic, and become a FAMACHA score pro) and look closely for signs that your animal isn't feeling well. A wonderful free resource is Twin Pear Farm's YouTube tutorials.
  4. Give them some time to settle in; every goat is different. After a couple months, their FULL personalities come out — and trust us, they're characters.
  5. Never milked before? There's a bit of a learning curve, and your hands will get tight and tired. You'll get the hang of it!
  6. Milking is a twice-a-day commitment — morning and night, as consistent as you can. We milk at 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. Some breeders kid share, if that's your thing — it's not ours because we don't like hyenas in goat form. After 90+ days fresh, you can drop to once a day if needed. Bloodlines matter here — some are rockstar longevity milkers, others dry off quickly.
  7. Heads up: a buckling can mate as early as 7 weeks old! Make sure he has a buckling or wether pal to keep him company.
  8. Goats need their hooves trimmed!

Transportation

Buyers arrange transportation and let me know what paperwork the transporter needs (health certificate, brucellosis test, etc). Ground transportation is getting harder to find with reliable care and timely delivery. I highly recommend air shipping or personally coming to pick up your new furry friend. That said, I'm happy to work with ground transportation too.

Please keep me posted with an approximate arrival time for the transporter.

The vet bill is on the buyer.

I'll send your kid off with a bottle and milk for the road. Happy Goats, Happy Milking!

Breeding Goals

I breed for smart, even-tempered, friendly goats with heavy milk production. I see a ton of potential to breed for a goat that gives me 5+ pounds instead of milking fancy show goats that give a max of 3 pounds.

Conformation matters, but it has its limits. If a doe is from great bloodlines but has a history of drying off quickly, that's a hard pass for me.

I want reliable does that bring the milk all year long — whether they're milking twice a day or dropped to once a day after the 90-day mark.

Easy-to-milk teats and udders with that perfect soft texture — yes please!

And TASTE! Oh boy, TASTE! We're after sweet, delicious milk that holds its flavor as long as possible. Not every goat delivers on this — it varies by breed and even goat to goat — so we breed for the good stuff.

A herd sire should be beautiful and correct, but I'm just as interested in his mom, sisters, and the other ladies in his line. Bucks need strong does around them to be a positive influence on their kids.

All our kids are bottle fed because we want them friendly and people-loving. Occasionally we'll leave kids with mom for the first month if things get hectic around here, then bottle feed until weaning.

Fingers crossed for ADGA milk testing and linear appraisals in 2027 — if we can find someone to come out! We can't wait to show off our herd's strengths. We also run our own little tests to see how their milk production holds up.